proper torgue setiing for lug nuts??

Tighten em till their tight plus a half a turn, Yea that ought to do it.

RickV wrote:

Tighten em till their tight plus a half a turn, Yea that ought to do it.

rickv hates me !

Jetdriverx wrote:

anyone know what the proper lug nut torgue setting is for my S?

I don't torque mine...I just put my air gun on low and watch the socket till it stops moving....hope this helps...

Really my XP service manual calls for 30 ft/lbs

Jetdriverx wrote:

RickV wrote:

Tighten em till their tight plus a half a turn, Yea that ought to do it.

rickv hates me !

At least he didn't tell you to add the red loctite.....

bubba53 wrote:

Jetdriverx wrote:

RickV wrote:

Tighten em till their tight plus a half a turn, Yea that ought to do it.

rickv hates me !

At least he didn't tell you to add the red locktite.....

nah, im waiting for tbone to jump in with that suggestion !

1/2" ratchet with 4 foot piece of pipe...then jump on that bad boy real good...yep... that ought to do it....THAT'S THE TRUTH!!

I would to 50 pounds. Torque it too tight and it could bend the rotors

rayray wrote:

1/2" ratchet with 4 foot piece of pipe...then jump on that bad boy real good...yep... that ought to do it....THAT'S THE TRUTH!!

that wont work for us, we cant jump that high rayray.

The greater the torque upon tightening, the greater the tensile stress on the lug. Can sudden side shock(rocks) to the wheel over-stress the lug? I say probably. Torque to 70 ft-lbs or(what I do) twist a 14" breaker bar until it feels really tight without feeling a lot of bolt stretch (leaning, jumping/hammering on it). Never have had a loose or broken lug. But, as always, OMHO.

I believe my manual says 90 foot pounds for cast aluminum but I'm not sure this includes the S. Hope this helps

That what I have and that's what the specs call for but the dealer said not to do that much it could strip the threads. Go figure.

Jetdriverx wrote:

That what I have and that's what the specs call for but the dealer said not to do that much it could strip the threads. Go figure.

90 seems way too much....65 would be plenty.

rayray wrote:

Jetdriverx wrote:

That what I have and that's what the specs call for but the dealer said not to do that much it could strip the threads. Go figure.

90 seems way too much....65 would be plenty.

Is dat the truth?

THAT'S THE TRUTH!! RAY RAY DON'T LIE....TRUST ME!!!!

Finzup wrote:

The greater the torque upon tightening, the greater the tensile stress on the lug. Can sudden side shock(rocks) to the wheel over-stress the lug? I say probably. Torque to 70 ft-lbs or(what I do) twist a 14" breaker bar until it feels really tight without feeling a lot of bolt stretch (leaning, jumping/hammering on it). Never have had a loose or broken lug. But, as always, OMHO.

I think thats the problem BIG G ran into when he hit that well casing with his RZR we found the inside bead of rim cracked and the thread were also in slivers when we went to put his wheels back on at the fall ride! Also found a issue with the lug nut only catching about 5 or 6 threads on oem aluminum wheels he was running.

Manual says 90, and that's what I've done. It does sound a little tight to me, but I have had no trouble. I think the Rhino calls for 45, so 90 seems a little much. I always tq to the recomended specs no matter what. 100ft/lbs on the pro comp wheels on Becky's Jeep seems like they are barely on there, but they have never once backed off.

What ever you do, don't go more than 90 on the rzr.

And for some reason, the lug nuts can and will loosen up on a alum. wheel. When I used to deliver trailers, I would always check the tire pressure and tighten up all of the lug nuts. Steel wheels would stay tight, while the alum. ones would need re-tighten once or twice in the first couple of hundred of miles. You could tighten the nuts on a alum wheel as tight as you could get them with a good size 4 way wrench, but they would ALWAYS get just a lil loose in a 100 miles, so ya might want to carry a wrench with ya and check the lugs every time you stop for a tastey Miller product break along the trail.

keeter wrote:

Finzup wrote:

The greater the torque upon tightening, the greater the tensile stress on the lug. Can sudden side shock(rocks) to the wheel over-stress the lug? I say probably. Torque to 70 ft-lbs or(what I do) twist a 14" breaker bar until it feels really tight without feeling a lot of bolt stretch (leaning, jumping/hammering on it). Never have had a loose or broken lug. But, as always, OMHO.

I think thats the problem BIG G ran into when he hit that well casing with his RZR we found the inside bead of rim cracked and the thread were also in slivers when we went to put his wheels back on at the fall ride! Also found a issue with the lug nut only catching about 5 or 6 threads on oem aluminum wheels he was running.

Thats very interesting...

3012red wrote:

And for some reason, the lug nuts can and will loosen up on a alum. wheel. When I used to deliver trailers, I would always check the tire pressure and tighten up all of the lug nuts. Steel wheels would stay tight, while the alum. ones would need re-tighten once or twice in the first couple of hundred of miles. You could tighten the nuts on a alum wheel as tight as you could get them with a good size 4 way wrench, but they would ALWAYS get just a lil loose in a 100 miles, so ya might want to carry a wrench with ya and check the lugs every time you stop for a tastey Miller product break along the trail.

Every aluminum wheel I have had recommended to re-check the torque after the first 100 miles! Didnt matter if it was for a truck, car, or atv! Always torqued to spec then rechecked after 100 or so miles, now its just a habit, better safe than sorry!

Use blue lock tight on mine.

some say if your using your brakes alot with aluminum wheels, the aluminum is more sensitive to heat-up and cool down that cause contraction and expansion of the lug holes in the rims even though its not really alot of heat as opposed to steel rims therefore causing a small amount of looseness in lug nuts after a period of time. I've noticed that it sometimes happens on the aluminum rims on my F-350 when i've had heavy loads traveling down the same hilly interstate between Beckley and Lewisburg. Aluminum is alot softer than steel of course. But on the factory steel rims on my RZR which is fairly thin, i've never had loose lug nuts. I torque mine to 90Ft.Lbs. with a star pattern.

Yep, always re-check you lugs after you have had the wheels off and back on. Better safe than sorry. I do not ever want to lose a wheel at 50mph!

Yamabeast wrote:

Yep, always re-check you lugs after you have had the wheels off and back on. Better safe than sorry. I do not ever want to lose a wheel at 50mph!

50mph !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!well that leaves me out....

bubba53 wrote:

Yamabeast wrote:

Yep, always re-check you lugs after you have had the wheels off and back on. Better safe than sorry. I do not ever want to lose a wheel at 50mph!

50mph !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!well that leaves me out....

What can't you go that fast Bubba, are you going to start drivein a Can-Ham??

One of these days I am going to get behind bubba and floor it. Make bubba go faster

Just don't scare him to bad!!

TBONE21 wrote:

One of these days I am going to get behind bubba and floor it. Make bubba go faster

Tbone...you know very well you have to stay on Bobby D's azz so you will know which way to go thru the mud holes.....