Cleaning….

 I went ahead and ordered this stuff to assist in cleaning my Wildcat. A buddy of mine posted a thread from the Rzr Forum from some guys that are using this on a pressure washer. According to their comments, this will clean your machine without having to take a wash mitt or sponge too it. According to the posts, you spray off the heavy mud/dirt, then foam the machine and let it sit for 5 minutes or so, and then hose it off. Heavier mud may require a second application. Thought I would give it a try! I will report my findings once it arrives and I muddy up my Wildcat again.

It should work pretty good...i got a 65 dollar electric pressure washer from lowes....i spray the heavy stuff off...spray it down with purple power...let it soak then i take dawn spray it thru the pressure washer without the end...let it sit in the suds for anoth 5-10 minutes...after that pressure wash it clean thenafter dry i wipe it down with pledge or a can of stuff from the dealer..(sc1) or something like that....every once in a while i remove all the plastic rockers back and clean it real good. 1000+ miles and still looks new

I tried the slick ATV wash stuff and it was a total bust. I have tried a lot but not this and at the end of the day chemicals cannot compete with elbow grease. 

Let us know though how it goes.

S 100 is by far the only thing I would use on a Alum motor , S 100 is safe to use in direct sunlight , will not spot , does not etch , almost all the bike manufactures recomend it or use a version of it with there name on it ( like harley wash , or honda brite) . Nothing is perfect but S 100 will not remove stickers or dull paint . Purple stuff/simple green works great but will eventually dull the plastic , it contains
Phosphorus
, Charlies Soap is another great cleaner that does not use Phosphorus , full stength it does a great job of cleaning concrete and tile , gentle enough to wash you hand at full strengh with no drying , mixed with water 25% makes a great car wash / even has directions for use as a lanudry detergent. Only thing I found on the ATV that it did not clean well was rubber parts , that is where I used the puprle stuff . I called and talked to the owner of Charlies soap and he explained that almost all soap manufactures put tracer chemicals in there soaps/detergents so that there product works better then other , his has none and said that it take 3-4 washing to remove this chemical and that his product made other products work better by removing a previoius detergents tracer chemicals. 
I would just avoid a pressure washer all together on a ATV or UTV , maybe to get the big stuff off but you would be better to leave it dirty than to blast it . When I sold my last machine it was clean and shinny with normal scratches with no polish , silicone, or wax on it , just the factory glaze on the plastic and it was a 09 model .

Good info! I don't plan on blasting it too much with a pressure washer.  I know those things can do damage if the blasting is going in the wrong area. I will use moderate pressure to get the worst off, then foam it, then more moderate pressure to remove the foam and see what I have left.

My elec. Pressure washer is only 1500psi..ppl say it can blast dirt into bushings and what not but i pull my a-arms bout ecery other ride...clean bushings and re install everything with fresh clean grease...

I might limit the pressure washer to the top of the machine and stick with the hose on the lower area. Still, hose/foam/hose might get me some good results. Anything to avoid hand washing in the dead of winter!

I have heard things like armor all while it is clean to help clean it up afterwards , Silicone ( like spay tire shine ) , to dish detergent light diluted in a spray bottle coat and let dry before riding . What would be awsome would be a two part cleaner , coat with one chem , then another that releases the first chem so that it is clean again , then recoat with chem number 1 .  I know on my RZR I wanted to cut back the corners of the skid plate to allow mudd to wash out ( at least on corner ) , all them rocks and mudd just hung on the skid plate even with the holes , to really get anything clean you had to drop the skid plate .

PUNDER,

The radiator want helps with that skid plate stuff getting hung up. That's what I use to get that stuff out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPM8OR6W6WE&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Hope this link works....stuff looks bada$$..

Looks like it would be awesome on a sxs if it goes on clear....would def. Be awesome on the underside...even on a vehicle to try n fight road salt

Thanks for the info.

Great idea

I did some reading on that Ultra Everdry and the stuffs looks interesting but it is pretty pricey and does not appear to be that durable. I have a feeling that every time you brushed a branch down the side of your machine or rubbed up against something you would need to re-coat that area.

Ron(09rzr) wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPM8OR6W6WE&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Hope this link works....stuff looks bada$$..

There you go , that would be awsome , Mudd would never stick so it would never cake up , I know there was several rides where we had so much mud caked on the machines that they had no suspension left . I could care less about the upper side of the body that would be best used on the underside . Wonder how much it cost ?

I looked it up once it aint to cheap let me see what i can find

The btm coat is 181 a gallon top coat is 331 a gallon....lol..expensive...YES.....bada$$.....definitely....type of product only tbone could afford....wonder what the coverage is...if you could do the underside of say 10 machines...split the cost 10 ways that wouldnt be too bad.....specially if it really works for a long period of time...

Im going to tell ya…Killerskunk had a good cleaning method. His always looked good. I just pressure wash it…car bath it then soak it with SC1. That has always been a good method for what I do. If my plastics get real bad then I will send it to performance east to get new plastics but I am far from that.

RZR Ron wanted me to post this for u guys.

https://youtu.be/IPM8OR6W6WE

Lol i figured it out lastnight tbone....sry forgot to tell you...i seen today at homedepot they had a 2 part spray can deal...it was something similar...spray the 2 parts on and it repels water..ice.mud..oil....it was 20 bucks in the paint section...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-18-oz-NeverWet-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Kit-274232/204216476

Might be worth a shot on the underside..

I'm right here at Lowe's, let me see if they have it! 

EDIT: Found it! Same price, coverage is 10-15 sq ft so you are looking at over $1 per sq ft. Dries to a flat/slightly milky finish and made have a chalky feel to it. You can re-apply top coat as needed when water fails to run off. This might be nice under the fender wells but I am not sure how it would react to the heat of the engine. And, if it's anything like the other stuff, other cleaners seem to take it off. I am going to pass on this for now and see how my foam stuff does.

Good find , a good test that would not show would be the skid plate .

An area where this might be great is on top of the skid plates!

could just do it to the outer body. Ross did have a good thought on the heat from the motor. Don't know if it would hold up or not but putting it on the exterior only would be worth a shot maybe.

I thought about the outer body but I don't want a flat/milky finish….I 'd rather wash it. Under the fender wells might be a good place.

No substitute for elbow grease

go to northern tool they sell a mudd wash by the powerwashing supplies. Ive had really good luck with it. Then I hose it down with SC1