Changing belt on 2012 T4

Does anyone have any pointers on how to get the rear pully to stop turning in order to torque the nut after installation of new belt?  I have it all ready to put back together, but I can't get the rear nut torqued.  I have tried standing on the brakes, but the clutch just spins on the belt.  Should the belt be holding the clutch still?  Overall it went pretty smooth for my first time ever changing a belt.  Wouldn't want to do it in the field, but now I know what tools to carry with me at all times in case I need to.

I thought you could take belt off without removing the pulley on the 2012/2013 T4?  I know on the 2014 you have to remove them. 

Also how many miles on the belt you replaced?

Well you can, but I loosened the nut per directions I read over on the teryx forum.  After I loosened it, I wondered what purpose it served.  I did have to pull the primary to make it easier to get the new belt on.  

I had about 2500 on mine.  It slipped several times this winter when plowing so I thought I should go ahead and replace it before riding season.  Case was full of belt dust.

Gotcha! Good luck with figuring it out and let us know how you got that nut tight.

What ever you do DO NOT USE A IMPACT GUN. Put a small ratchet strap on to hold in place will work. Quickie in the field you can cut belt off and wedge primary sheave enough to roll it on.

i seen on the teryx forum that u could but two bolts in the rear pulley and it would expand the clutch to get the belt on and off i think it was two 8mm bolts about 2 inchs long

On the Prarie I used to have, I just worked the belt as far down in the primary as I could, and it barely slipped over the secondary as I turned it.  Kinda worked it off and back on.  It was a finger smasher.  There has to be a way to wedge something in there so it can't turn.  Maybe find a way to wedge the old belt in there.  

On Yamahas, you take a bolt out of the cover and put it in a hole in the secondary to spread it, then the belt comes right off.  See if there are any holes in it, and if there are two holes you can stick some bolts in them and slide a pipe of something between them to keep it from turning while you torque it.

A small wood wedge will do the trick hump.

I used one of the holes in the secondary and put a wedge between it an the frame to keep the clutch from spinning.
But I am still a little concerned because I had slipped the belt a couple times last year and then several times this year while plowing. When I cracked the case I got covered with belt dust. I didn't pull the clutches and clean them. I just blowed them out the best I could. From what I understand once you put the belt back on and take the spreader bolts out of the secondary and spin the primary it should tighten the belt back up enough to be able to torque the secondary nut. Well the belt just slips on the clutches. I'm wondering if there isn't something wrong with my clutches. As soon as I get back to work I am going to ship them to VFORCEJOHN for work but in the mean time I just hope this belt doesn't slip.

Your money with VFJ will be well spent.John's mod is the ticket.

I changed my 12 belt on the Hmt spring ride at night in the rain and never loosened or took of either pulley. I did run 2 35 mm bolts into the secondary to open it up for the belt to drop free.

just installed vforce john stage 3 mod on mine makes alot of difference doesnt seem to be reving so high all the time seems to grip better can run 35mph in low easy lots of torque holds back going down hills really good also  pit dog recommended vforce john     he is very helpful when you call him   mod transforms the machine i think im going to really like mod THANKS PIT DOG   heard about fire sure hope you gonna be ok i will say a prayer for ya some of you guys know god watches over us he sparred my life on one of the rides when the tree went through the machine where i had just been sitting minutes before i thank god everytime i think about it i thank him for you to pitdog

On which machine? A lot of us have been waiting on the T4 clutch for a long time.

2012 750 teryx pictured in my avatar

I can't see the avatars on the mobile version. T2 or 4?

mrwvsportsman wrote:

Does anyone have any pointers on how to get the rear pully to stop turning in order to torque the nut after installation of new belt?  I have it all ready to put back together, but I can't get the rear nut torqued.  I have tried standing on the brakes, but the clutch just spins on the belt.  Should the belt be holding the clutch still?  Overall it went pretty smooth for my first time ever changing a belt.  Wouldn't want to do it in the field, but now I know what tools to carry with me at all times in case I need to.

put machine in gear and get someone to hold brake torque is 69ft lbs

chilly2031 wrote:

I can't see the avatars on the mobile version.  T2 or 4?

mine is 2012 sport 2 seater i think the t2 is 800cc really nice machine

VFJ is the man. I run 30" tires and desperately need his clutch mod. It's been a never ending wait for him to get the parts for production. Now that I am having side nets made for T4's and glove box plaques made to go where the factory warning label is riveted, I see how hard it is to get this stuff done and ready to sell.