RZR S U-joint part #

Here is the part # for U-joints from Tractor Supply. These have grease fittings, and seem to be well made. $19 each.

I don't see a name brand on the box, but here are the numbers on the label.

0270192

C&B kit 675



FITS RZR-S ONLY!

Thanks hump! Great post. Deserves to be a sticky!

Thanks for the info Hump..

Are these supposed to be an improvement over stock? And do they fit all S's?

Bubba, he said that they were for a S only. Is this the u-joint ounder the clutch cover??? Since mine has been in-op, I have been cleaning and painting it up, and I found the u-joint that is under the clutch cover seems to have a awful lot of play in it!! And yesterday I found that my left front tie rod has slop in it. I put new steering knuckles, wheel bearings, and tie rods on it not that long ago. The brake pads don't look to lively, but the sand and grit sure is hard on them, as I hardly ever use my brakes. A friend from Ohio ws gonna try to build up the knuckles where the tie rod ends had belled them out. That would be on my old ones, and if he can get it done, I'll have a spare set. OK fellows, wjat else will I find that is in bad shape?????

Uh, I meant that I had a lot of play in the upper ball joint! And the hole for the ball joint was wallered out on my old knuckles.

Yes, it is for both ends of the front driveshaft and for the S only. The S has a bigger u joint than the rzr. I seen all kinds of part #s on rzrforums for the rzr. If the one under the clutch cover is worn out, I would say the other one at the front diff is bad also. They are both the same.

OK. I guess I better get the skid plate off and find that pin that has to knocked out.

3012red wrote:

OK. I guess I better get the skid plate off and find that pin that has to knocked out.

It's in the front yoke, and I have to warn ya, it's gonna take a few Miller Lites to get it out. Maybe even some bad words. Wear gloves, that way when you hit your hands with the hammer it won't hurt as bad. I beat the hell out of mine for quite a while, even threatened to trade it on a commander. That pin is really in there. I have a 5/16" bolt through mine with a lock nut now.

If it makes ya threaten to trade for a commander, it surely must be a major pain in the in-grown toe-nail!!! AS we most all know, ya just can't get any better than a RZR! I will just find it, and dribble some sneaky oil on it for a week or so before I try to punch it out. As the Joker goes swimming so much, I already figured that that pin would be frozen in there pretty tight.

The roll pin versus a bolt may have been put in there to prevent damage??

3012red wrote:

If it makes ya threaten to trade for a commander, it surely must be a major pain in the in-grown toe-nail!!! AS we most all know, ya just can't get any better than a RZR! I will just find it, and dribble some sneaky oil on it for a week or so before I try to punch it out. As the Joker goes swimming so much, I already figured that that pin would be frozen in there pretty tight.

T-Bone, slowly read the above post. I said "we MOST all know". Ya get that strange one in every large group!!!!lol

I know I still had to throw that out. Poor ol can am gets it rough!

Being on the receiving end makes ya tougher!!!!!

Hump wrote:

3012red wrote:

OK. I guess I better get the skid plate off and find that pin that has to knocked out.

It's in the front yoke, and I have to warn ya, it's gonna take a few Miller Lites to get it out. Maybe even some bad words. Wear gloves, that way when you hit your hands with the hammer it won't hurt as bad. I beat the hell out of mine for quite a while, even threatened to trade it on a commander. That pin is really in there. I have a 5/16" bolt through mine with a lock nut now.

I must have lucked out on mine...when I repaired my front end last year I punched that roll pin from the passenger side and it only took three punches....about time something went my way....

Bubba Bubba Bubba, you da man. That pin saw who was going after it and just gave up!!!!!!!!!

Hump wrote:

3012red wrote:

OK. I guess I better get the skid plate off and find that pin that has to knocked out.

It's in the front yoke, and I have to warn ya, it's gonna take a few Miller Lites to get it out. Maybe even some bad words. Wear gloves, that way when you hit your hands with the hammer it won't hurt as bad. I beat the hell out of mine for quite a while, even threatened to trade it on a commander. That pin is really in there. I have a 5/16" bolt through mine with a lock nut now.

I hope you put a grade 8 bolt in there Hump....you don't want it shearing off on you...

3012red wrote:

Bubba Bubba Bubba, you da man. That pin saw who was going after it and just gave up!!!!!!!!!

Thats right....

TBONE21 wrote:

I know I still had to throw that out. Poor ol can am gets it rough!

I love can-ams...I think they are neat....everybody should own one...

3012red wrote:

Being on the receiving end makes ya tougher!!!!!

Yeah...my momma called it tough love....

According to the service manual you are suppose to replace the roll pin with a new one everytime you knock it out....

I'll bet that not to many dealers keep the pin in stock!

bubba53 wrote:

TBONE21 wrote:

I know I still had to throw that out. Poor ol can am gets it rough!

I love can-ams...I think they are neat....everybody should own one...

I hear ya!!

Ok, I read alot of mixed reviews on the roll pin vs a bolt. Yes, if the nut comes off the bolt and the bolt backs out, it can hit the diff housing and cause major damage. Also, there's the idea that the bolt may be to hard and cause the pinion shaft to break instead of the bolt/pin if something goes wrong. I have about 5 real hard rides on mine with no troubles with a grade 5 bolt and nylon lock nut. I have been paranoid and checked it often, and the nut has stayed very tight. I honestly think that roll pin is tougher than a grade 5 bolt, so I don't see the pinion being my weak link. If I thought I wasn't going to have to take it back apart every year, I would have put a new pin in.

Hump wrote:

Ok, I read alot of mixed reviews on the roll pin vs a bolt. Yes, if the nut comes off the bolt and the bolt backs out, it can hit the diff housing and cause major damage. Also, there's the idea that the bolt may be to hard and cause the pinion shaft to break instead of the bolt/pin if something goes wrong. I have about 5 real hard rides on mine with no troubles with a grade 5 bolt and nylon lock nut. I have been paranoid and checked it often, and the nut has stayed very tight. I honestly think that roll pin is tougher than a grade 5 bolt, so I don't see the pinion being my weak link. If I thought I wasn't going to have to take it back apart every year, I would have put a new pin in.

Hump...the nut ain't gonna come off....cause it's behind the wheel...

Bubba, control yourself!!! And what is the part number for us poor folk that just have a 50in RZR?

3012red wrote:

Bubba, control yourself!!! And what is the part number for us poor folk that just have a 50in RZR?

There ain't no part #....That just ain't right...

Well, thats the way us poor folks luck runs, ain't it!!!