What I have learned

over the few years I have had a SXS, I have some things that I do to keep it running, please add to this list so that all may benefit:

1.  Grease it after every ride, at least every other ride
2.  Change oil and other fluids regularly, 50 hrs on oil/filter and 75 or so on others seems to work for me
3.  Drive in Low, unless you are running (over 20 mph) "I have never blown a belt" (in over 6000 miles) take care of it, and it will take care of you
4.  Keep it clean, as you wash, check everything... a tiny bend in A arm or radius rod may lead to a major problem
5.  Rotate tires (left to right) ever 500 miles, take to shop and have them flipped on rim 500 miles later ($20 at my local guy)
6.  Jack it up, wiggle and twist every thing, if there is play, there may be a problem later

Also add in Tips:
1.  when installing roof mounted accessories, after install, remove 1 screw/bolt at a time and fill hole with silicone, replace screw/bolt to seal out any leaks

Ok, everyone, keep adding... this is not a bash secession, not a "you should have bought" or "I would have" .... general tips for everyone 

I know I have other, but will add them as I think of them

If it ain't broke don't fix it is my motto just keep riding it until something blows   

  

Like a motor? Sorry couldn't resist. 

Every other ride pull the a-arm bushings all the way out clean them re-grease them and they last forever well a really long time... Lol might add to your clean up time but it helps

I keep a extra air filter pre-oiled for 2 day+ trips I go on.

I genuinely like this post and have already picked up some pointers on maintenance and cleaning of mine.  Some very good innovative ideas are popping up...MD

If your riding a can am make sure you clean and grease the shock bushings every 12 rides or so. This eliminates all suspension squeaks

just buy a old rhino and ride....lol

 I THOUGHT RIDING WAS SUPPOSE TO BE FUN NOT WORK. I'M LIKE BOBBY-D RIDE LIKE HELL TILL IT BREAKS DOWN. THEN FIX IT AND GO AGAIN. 

As for lubricants, it is just too easy to just stop off at the "Specific Brand Store" and gather the suggested liquids for the service times.

We as humans like to find another product that works just as well or better at a fraction of the factory prices.  Whether it be synthetic lubricants or carbon or coal oil based, there always seems to be a replacement that will work just fine. 

Being the new Polaris RZR owner, I guess I will have to step into the synthetic world for motor oil and gear lubricants.  Any thoughts on a popular synthetic  or blend that the 800 RZR likes?  Also any popular gear lubricants that it likes also.  I still have my trusty pad here that I have kept my notes so far.  I have heard anything from Mobile one to Walmart's synthetic being used.  I would just like to hear some of the riders here on the forum and keeping in line with the original post, "what have you learned" from the various service oils...MD   

before i rebuilt my 800 i was at 2000 miles...60 miles of riding it would be a quart low....switched to royal purple and it never used a drop up tili got it rebuilt at 4000 miles....

Grease, I only use marine grade (I think it is synthetic), seems to last much longer.  Cost more, but in the long run it may be worth it

yeah i would probably do all that if i had a popo or a can am but i just ride mine yeehaw lets go

My 800 wrote:

 Any thoughts on a popular synthetic  or blend that the 800 RZR likes?  Also any popular gear lubricants that it likes also.  I still have my trusty pad here that I have kept my notes so far.  I have heard anything from Mobile one to Walmart's synthetic being used.  I would just like to hear some of the riders here on the forum and keeping in line with the original post, "what have you learned" from the various service oils...MD   

Mike, my 570 has a transaxle so it uses the same fluid for both. the 800 is separate. the rear is 75w-90 gear oil.
the front is an atf fluid. the hilliard system needs thin fluid to engage properly. it only takes 8 oz. so you can use polaris brand. engine oil, mobil 1 synthetic is good. I use rotella t6 in everything I own that has an engine.
green grease or marine grease for chassis, etc. I grease my atv/utv's every time I ride them. all fluids I change at 25 hours. electric connections you can use dielectric grease for water resistance. hope this helps.

do the nwer rzr's throttle cable get water in them and freeze up as much as the 08-09's? more years might of done it too that is just the only years i have expierence with....no issues with my '12 xp but it dont go too far in the winter...

The thing that scares me the most about the fluid changes are the aluminum plugs and cases.  I can just see me over torquing one of those and stripping it out.  Do you guys suggest a torque wrench?  I've heard others say to just palm the ratchet head.

I never use one. I just make sure its decently tight. Im scared to over tighten them too. I just slowly tighten it.

Same here! I tighten them using hand tools so I can feel just how tight the plug is!

On aluminum block the little short stubby rachet works quite well.

I always use a Torque wrench. The manufacturer put torque specs in the manuals for a reason. I also bought a vacuum pump at Lowes and suck the oil out of the transmission/transfer case and rear, so I don't ever have to take the little drain screws out.

I have a 1/4" drive ratchet that's about 4.5" long that would probably work fine.  But when it comes to directions like are outlined in the service / owner's manual, I have a hard time not complying.  I found a Craftsman torque wrench that's rated for 5 - 80 pounds.  Might pick it up just for peace of mind.  If I didn't over torque it I'd be worried it wasn't tight enough!  I've read about the vacuum method before for removing the old fluids, but for the first time or two at least I'm gonna drain em.

Really enjoying this thread.

at work when we have to drain oil out of stuff we have air fittings to put in the fillup hole and it pushes the oil out the drain....i am sure a piece could be made for the rzr...it actually seems to help get most of the oil out

Those drain screws are in inch pounds except for the engine. You might want to pick up an inch pound torque wrench. The fill caps are in foot pounds.

I don't torque mine, but I can tell you that if you think it's not tight enough, it already is! I've been using a thumb and two fingers near the socket end of the ratchet to tighten mine instead of gripping the handle. Never had a leak doing it that way, and they are still tight as hell when I remove them again. Those steel plugs in the aluminum case expand at diferent temps, and aluminum is sticky anyway. Even when I thought "I wonder if I got that one tight enough?" I later found that it was tight as hell when I went to remove it next time.

Best way to do it would be torque to factory specs and not worry. The tools to do it are expensive, but are well worth it the 1st time you mess something up. I'm going to invest soon.

I found this tonight and found it interesting.....

http://teamalbaracing.com/i-16697945-polaris-rzr-oil-change-kit-get-that-polaris-oil-out-of-your-rzr.html

Good Post --Elmo.

I noticed some of the specs in the manual are like 6, 8 foot pounds of torque.  Most of the wrenches I've looked at, even the small ones, start registering at 10 ft pounds.  Thanks for the tip on inch pounds for those applications.